Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
